Stone Island A/W ’15 Lookbook
Stone Island’s public image is characterized by a curious mixture of identify recognition and false impression. It’s not unusual for the original, meant goal of a brand and its products to be overwhelmed by the cultural perception of it, however Stone Island have undoubtedly suffered from this phenomenon greater than most. It’s most likely fair to say that most individuals, even those who are acquainted with the Stone Island identify, are not conscious of just how influential Stone Island have been.
The Stone Island story must invariably detour by means of the murky world of football hooliganism, particularly, its English variant. Obviously, hooliganism has at all times been intently intertwined with youth tradition. Just as clearly, fashion was an integral a part of this youth culture. Throughout the late 1960s and early 1970s, the embryonic stage of trendy hooliganism, the contributors can be easily recognizable to one another, outsiders, and the forces of law and order out to thwart their actions. The dominant style was carefully tied to the skinhead scene: heavy boots, bomber/flight jackets, and heads shorn right down to a primary crop. Club colors, normally within the form of scarves were openly sported.
Naturally, the spectacle of very public violence in England’s stadiums grew to become an issue of governmental concern. The easily identifiable uniform of the hooligan was set for a stylistic shift. The casual was born.
The ‘casual’ motion was named for the designer sportswear and leisurewear favored by this new breed of hooligan. The emphasis on fashion took on a good better function, and bordered on the obsessive. The early stages of casual fashion have been targeted on designer sportswear and leisurewear labels. Adidas, Puma, Fila, Ellesse, Sergio Tacchini, stone island sale online shop and Lacoste had been favorites. Simply as importantly, there have been few, if any, identifying membership colours in sight. The practical impact of this was to make the individuals in violent disorder harder to establish. Anybody may pick an indignant wanting skinhead as a supply of potential hassle, someone dressed like an instructor at an elite tennis academy, much less so.
Whereas particular kinds changed, and certain seems and brands fell out of favor, the overall concept of ‘anonymous’ sportswear and leisurewear by no means went out of trend. Fred Perry, Nike, Hackett, Burberry, and, most importantly for our functions, Stone Island turned fashionable throughout this evolutionary interval.
At the same time, the English sport was undergoing a fundamental shift in culture, as the post-Hillsborough Taylor Report paved the way for massive, structural modernization. An inflow of big cash from the Premier League rebranding raised ticket costs across the board. The terraces had been on their means out for good, and the hooligans with them. Clearly, slicing off entry to the stadiums didn’t eradicate hooliganism; it simply made it less visible. Violence and its members became extra organized, and the informal ‘uniform’ turned more vital together with it, as a solution to determine willing combatants.
This became a much bigger difficulty for Stone Island than most, if not all, of the opposite brands and labels favored by the brand new breed hooligans. The trademarked rose compass emblem is ceaselessly bootlegged on enamel badges proclaiming the id of one hooligan group or another. It might be an in depth race at any given time between Stone Island and British Rail over whose logo has been ripped off more instances.
Stone Island, as a newer excessive end fashion label, carried less name recognition than established manufacturers like Burberry and Aquascutum and the next barrier to entry than massive sportswear labels like Adidas, Puma, Fila, and Lacoste. For a lot of, football violence was the one context wherein that they had ever seen or heard of Stone Island.
As Nick Hornby deftly pointed out in ‘Fever Pitch,’ whereas discussing Milwall’s a long time lengthy image downside, as soon as a status for violence turns into connected to something, that factor turns into sought out by those actively seeking to commit more violence, creating a self perpetuating cycle. This generally is a tough state of affairs to extract a brand from. Burberry, as an example, was pressured to roughly abandon their iconic plaid as a result of it got here to be related to city violence stone island sale online shop rather than country homes. To today, there are pubs, bars, and nightclubs in the UK that won’t allow anyone sporting Stone Island gear inside.
This could be unfortunate for anyone, but for Stone Island, this state of affairs borders on a downright injustice. Stone Island is the brainchild of Massimo Osti, a authentic fashion pioneer and genius. These aren’t words to be thrown round calmly. They are used to describe a man who began off his profession with no formal background in trend (originally, Osti labored as a graphic designer) and ended it as the acknowledged inventor of various manufacturing methods that could be familiar to anybody enthusiastic about vogue. The checklist of Osti’s innovations reads like an unending, excessive-end catalogue description: garment dying, brushed wool, waterproof linen and wool, reflective fabric, and coolmax, just to name a few.
Greater than any one, specific breakthrough, what set Massimo Osti apart during his life and what continues to set Stone Island apart at present, is the experimental method to Stone Island constructing garments. Somewhat paradoxically, this drive for never ending innovation is rooted in a really conventional Italian ethic. The excessive prices of legacy Italian luxurious brands were mirrored within the craftsmanship of the garment, the quality of the materials, and a timeless sense of style. Buying something from labels like Gucci or Prada was an funding in one thing that, correctly cared for, would have a lifespan of decades. The identical could be mentioned of Stone Island. A traditional piece of leather luggage and fashionable outerwear with a cellphone and mp3 participant wired into the garment don’t share a variety of outward similarities, but the quality and care put into the design and building are the identical.
This ethic is one thing largely lost in the contemporary market. Traditional labels went from household ownership to part of a larger conglomerate, which, in turn, led to wider proliferation of merchandise, much of which was not produced in keeping with past standards. The introduction of so-referred to as “fast fashion” additional diluted the retail panorama. The top result’s that title recognition is usually the one thing that survives within the consciousness of the average buyer.
When the sense of what exactly went into the manufacturing of a garment will not be on the forefront of a potential customer’s thoughts, there may be bound to be sticker shock when confronted with the retail worth of a actually fine quality piece. If a proper rationalization never comes, the idea of “a 5-hundred dollar sweatshirt” turns into a punch line.
Stone Island have by no means stopped their dedication to experimentation and innovation. Figuring out the specifics of each garment is beside the point, and would, in all chance be a project; Stone Island’s inside product write ups are like a technical guide. The factor to know about Stone Island isn’t that their clothes look good, it is that their clothes look good, explicitly, as a result of they are doing issues that no one else is doing, even with one thing as deceptively simple as a crew neck sweatshirt.